Great afternoon, but with a zinger (or stinger?)

Typical Oudaya street with pristine whites and blues

Steps from the Oudaya to the beach

This site, though not professionally made, has a lot of good information about the history of where I live: the Kasbah of the Oudayas, the oldest part of Rabat, which also houses a small palace and the oldest mosque in Rabat. I find it fascinating that many houses were originally built by Spanish Muslims fleeing Spain, as well as the names for the different places: the terrace that is about a minute's walk from our house is called the Plateforme du Semaphore: the signal platform when it was a working fort. The tea terrace is actually Cafe Maure, and the museum in the old palace houses a jewelry exhibition.

The main gate that I have posted on the right side of this blog is an Almohad gate called Bab Oudaia (Oudaya), built in 1195. The main street is called Rue Jamaa and the mosque-- Jamaa Al Atiq-- so close I feel I could almost touch it from my roof, is the oldest in Rabat, built in the 12th century and restored in the 18th. The Andalusian Gardens, near the palace museum and Cafe Maure, were laid out by the French during the colonial period. The palace was built in the 17th century, and the original hammam is still intact though, unfortunately, out of commission.

At the end of rue Jamaa is the Platforme du Semaphore, the old signal platform from the forts' working days. The view is dramatic of Oued Bougareg (the river that separates Rabat from Sale) and the Atlantic Ocean. Though I wish there were benches or tables, it is a fantastic place to view during the day, and rather interesting at night when it turns into Lovers' Lane, couples clutching each other against the wall, whispering to each other in the shadows while enjoying the sea breeze and spectacular view. There are steps that lead down to the beach, where, if I feel like splurging someday, surf lessons and board rental are available.

The platform: fairly calm during the day



Beach view from platform


Inlet view from platform

Road outside the Oudaya; the dark alley is the closest Medina entrance

After a gratifyingly productive morning of taking this module's test for my online class and a conversation over Skype with Mom, I headed out with the goal of learning more about the Oudaya in the way that made the most sense to me: by visiting the museum. Unfortunately for me, the museum talked more of jewelry and artifacts than the history of the palace, but it was still an interesting place worth seeing, particularly the diversity of wedding jewelery from all over Morocco.

I decided to try to find a hammam, and was directed across the street (out of the Oudaya) to the outskirts of the Medina, but became sidetracked by a row of furniture-sellers who restored antique wood boxes, tables, doors, frames, and dressers, admiring the handiwork and artistry; the melding of new refurbished painting with the old worn wood. I may concede on an old jewelry box after my first paycheck, depending on how finances are going, as it will be useful even here, as I do not have a mirror in my room, and this does on the inside.

Hammam-hunting lost, I wandered the medina streets, mostly residential in this area, then crossed over to the old cemetery overlooking the beach.

Small part of the cemetery.

It was from that cemetery that I found the road that leads from the Oudaya to the beach, and I walked up it, then past the gallery showing female Moroccan abstract artist. I had introduced myself earlier to the kind women who worked there and feel like it would be fun to get to know them, especially the woman from down south who speaks Berber (though not my dialect). I decided today was going to be a true "get to know the neighborhood" day, so I went somewhere else I had been wanting to see: an exhibit by a non-profit to support women pottery cooperatives.

On the walk over, out of nowhere, I was stung by a bee. I've never been stung, so I was terrified that I'd have an allergic reaction, but it seems to be fine. I was pretty panicked for a few minutes though, since I don't have an Epi-pen. Live and learn: bee stings are not fun, but I do not believe I am allergic, (touch wood, lhamdullah).

The Benedryl is making me sleepy though, so I'm afraid that's all for today. Lla y awn.

View of Oued Bougreg and outer Oudaya wall from Cafe Maure